Q & A Q - Please tell me when the best time to trim our Bougainvillea vines and bushes is? To contain our plant’s growth last year, it was necessary to trim down one long vine to three feet and it did not bloom. Will the bloom return in the future? I would truly appreciate your help. A - The Bougainvillea is a versatile vine or shrub with vibrant colored bracts (modified leaves) instead of flowers. They have vigorous growth habits and long blooming seasons. They are resistant to strong pruning but unless you want to shape or direct growth, pruning isn’t really necessary. Prune if you must in the winter. As your plant leafs out in the spring it should bloom again although it may skip a season. While it can be pruned year round, the best time to prune the Bougainvillea is during its dormant period between December and February. Fertilize your plant heavily with Gro-Power to encourage new growth. Then fertilize again in summer. Water normally while plants are growing fast, but ease off temporarily in mid-summer to promote better flowering. Be careful not to underwater however.

Q - I live in Los Angeles and would drive down to buy 6 - 10 gal. Carolina Laurel Bright 'n Tight(s). BUT, is there a way can be sure there will be 6 of them when I arrive? I'd be very willing to call with my credit card to put down a deposit. A - The biggest Bright n Tight we have right now is 5 gallon. They are about 24" tall but on the skinny side. We have over 300 which I could have 20 to 30 sent to our Oceanside location for you to look at. The price is $12.00 per 5 gallon.

Q - I would like to find a small evergreen tree that flowers and does not grow too large for my rather modest front yard. Also, it should be a tree whose roots will not tear up the concrete sidewalk and driveway. Can you help me out? A - Your best choice for a tree that you have described is the Metrosideros, more popularly known as a New Zealand Christmas Tree. It produces pretty red flowers, grows very slowly, and will not undermine your driveway or walk. The New Zealand Christmas Tree requires little water and is reasonably priced. Another small tree which probably would suit your front yard needs is the hybrid Dwarf Magnolia. There are two varieties, St. Mary’s and Majestic Beauty. The latter has larger leaves and both produce big white saucer blooms. These demand little care.

Q - In front of my house I have a bank where I planted pink rosea ice plant about eight years ago. The soil is a mixture of decomposed granite and loose dirt left over from the initial grading. My watering pattern is once a week for thirty minutes. This year I noticed plants dying in different areas leaving patches. I have inquired at different nurseries about this problem and have not received any satisfactory answers. Am I watering too little? What type of fertilizer do you recommend? What is your opinion of using Terr-O-Vite? Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. A - Your problem is not an unusual one for Southern California gardens. Basically, rosea ice plant, like many ground covers does not live forever. It covers rapidly and can be quite drought tolerant, but does tend to have a limited lifespan unless we take measures to prolong its effectiveness. First, your watering may be a little substandard. Perhaps a little more water would be helpful. Second, fertilizing with an organic base fertilizer such as Gro-Power will definitely extend your ground covers life and make it prettier. Lastly, about Terr-O-Vite. Terr-O-Vite is a wonderful addition to the regular fertilizing of your ground cover areas, especially since it can be easily applied with a hose proportion while watering. In some bare areas you may want to consider replanting with new rosea iceplant or interplanting with ground cover type shrubs, particularly good would be prostrate Blue Acacia or Bougainvillea.

Q - Is your Mark Collins the same Mr. Mark Collins who landscaped Villa La Jolla, 6433-6455 La Jolla Blvd., in 1975? I am interested in the history of these gardens. A - Evergreen Nursery did substantial relandscaping at Villa La Jolla in 1975 and 1976 when they converted from an apartment complex to a condominium complex. As an apartment complex, Villa La Jolla was planted with much oldstyle plant material including junipers and pines. When the conversion took place, the owners wanted to give the grounds a facelift. They wanted a California tropical look. To get the effect we planted tropical and sub tropical plants including palms and sheffleras amid fountains and tile. Colorful ground covers and vines were planted intermittently to add variety and year round color. From the time to time have stopped by to see how it is progressing. My most recent visit was about a month ago and it looks as though, with a few slight exceptions, things are being very well kept. If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask.

Q - Last spring we purchased three potted Littlecados. At the time we consulted with people at your nursery as to suitability for Bonita, watering, fertilizing, etc. At first, we watered them every three days extending it to once a week, discontinuing whenever we had ample rainfall. This winter all three exhibited reddish brown tips on the leaf ends after experiencing somewhat rapid growth (about a foot overall). We called your nursery for help and were told that it could be one of several things: a. too much water b. too much fertilizer (we didn’t fertilize) c. root rot (all three trees are planted eight to nine feet apart where a very healthy lawn had been for over nine years – formerly desert plants. We were told to space watering to two week intervals and they would probably “come out of it.” Two recovered nicely. The third lost most of its leaves, put out a few bud-looking growths and “croaked completely.” I waited until now to contact you in the hopes it would begin leafing out. When I inquired about a possible replacement (even another kind of tree) I was told that you are a wholesale nursery and have no warranty as to condition. In all fairness, isn’t it possible the tree was sick when we purchased it? I have contacted the County Extension Service who said that avocados are susceptible to diseaes that are slow to exhibit symptoms. I don’t know about you, but I don’t have $40 to just throw away. A - In all fairness, it is possible that the trees were stressed when you purchased them from the nursery – but very unlikely. The nursery environment, by necessity, provides optimum growing conditions for trees and plants in a given area. Littlecado, a dwarf avocado variety, are wonderful trees because they generally grow well in Southern California where the soil and climate conditions are suitable. There are few diseases that bother them. They most important factor in growing avocados is good drainage, particularly in the winter. Too much water can easily kill a tree. This year’s long frost, heavy soil and/or poor drainage all may have contributed to the demise of your trees. In either case, the advice you received was sound as evidenced by the two trees which survived when the watering was cut back. Planting the trees in a lawn area, which is usually watered more frequently, increased the possibility of over watering and root rot. It seems the third tree had suffered more extensive root damage and couldn’t pull through. Because we can’t control the growing conditions or the care provided to plants after they are purchased, we can’t guarantee their survival. We make every effort to accommodate the problems of all our customers and do our best to provide quality plant material and sound gardening advice. No one has money to throw away. You should consider yourself fortunate the other two survived in an area or in conditions that may not be optimum for growing avocados.